Don't get in a hurry. This is a process that takes a long time and will
reward you with beautiful results once you get your own process down. Everyone
will discover methods that work for them and should use whatever works for
</1L>I've been using Tite Bond II glue because it is water based and
easy to clean up, but you will need to thin it a bit. Tite Bond said it could
be thinned 5% with water, but I've been going more for 10% with no problems.
OK, poly glues clog up sandpaper more than epoxy, but it is a trade off. I
use a brass brush to clean the belt before using the art gum thingy you can
buy for cleaning belts. Look for cheap charcoal grill brushes at the discount
store. They work great.
This is the place to use those beautiful veneers with the wonderful grain
on the outside layers. Use something strong on the inside layers.
I carefully sand the mating edges of all the pieces, then tape the outer
pieces together so that they won't drift when pressing. It would be nice to be
able to tape the inner pieces too, but I've not found anything yet that would
not make a bulge in the final stick.
I place my sticks on a sheet of ABS plastic as I glue them up, and then
place another sheet on top for pressing.
When placing the top sheet of PVC, be careful not to make any lateral
movements. Any lateral shift will displace the inside pieces and create gaps.
I've got a 4"x4" board which I stack the layers against to try to prevent
them from shifting while stacking on the weights.
Let dry for several days, remove from the press, remove the top section,
then let dry for several more days.
Get some good cloth backed sandpaper, J weight. It does a great job on
sanding these as well as any other boom and it lasts MUCH longer than the
paper backed stuff.
This is a great way to make sticks out of beautiful veneers without
wasting as much as if you just glued the veneer sheets together and then cut
out the rang. OK, it may not be much of a big deal, but there you go.